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| Lima, Peru - Day 2 |
The museum also has an erotic section of pottery. This album of photos may not be appropriate for young children.
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| Lima, Peru - Erotic Musuem - Day 2 |
Showing posts with label Peru. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Peru. Show all posts
Thursday, May 14, 2009
Lima, Peru - Day 2
Today Matt and I went to the big (by South American standards) Museo Larco, one of the largest collections of pre Colombian art, which houses over 45,000 Peruvian pottery and clay figures. As such the majority of the pictures in today’s photo album will be the really unique pottery and vases shaped into different animals and peoples.
The museum also has an erotic section of pottery. This album of photos may not be appropriate for young children.
The museum also has an erotic section of pottery. This album of photos may not be appropriate for young children.
Tuesday, May 12, 2009
Lima, Peru - Day 1
Today we arrived in Lima after an early morning flight from Cusco. We dropped our bags off and set off to explore the old section of town. Our first stop was Covento y Museo de San Francisco, a spectacular colonial area church with a catacomb connecting other churches below grounds and housing large open burial grounds with hundreds of skeletons. The church also has a world renowned library with ancient manuscripts and wonderful leather bound books in transcribed in Latin.
We made a brief pit stop for some Anticuchos de Corazon or beef hearts on a skewer which were surprisingly tender and amazingly flavorful. I’ve converted another traveler to the wonders of organ meats!
After a brief stop at the inquisition museum where there were numerous artifacts of torture, we walked over to the Lima Chinatown. Apparently there is a large Chinese population in Lima. Actually there are Chinese people everywhere that I went in South America. Very few places did not have one or two Chifas (Chinese restaurants) providing some variety to the local cuisine. Chifa is a play on the mandarin chi fan or eat rice / meal. The best way that I can describe them as fusion restaurants taking the Chinese style of cooking and incorporating local ingredients, but in reality they are about as close to authentic Chinese food as your local crappy take out place.
Although Lima had the largest Chinatown outside of possibly Sao Paulo, Brazil’s Japan / Korea / Chinatown, I didn’t really notice a lot of Chinese people there. There were blocks and blocks of restaurants and stores run by Chinese, but the customers were all Peruvians and no Chinese were in sight eating in the restaurants or shopping in the stores. Perhaps this is a Chinatown akin to the one in San Francisco where tourists and non Asians flock to while local Asians look for more authentic and non-touristic establishments.
We made a brief pit stop for some Anticuchos de Corazon or beef hearts on a skewer which were surprisingly tender and amazingly flavorful. I’ve converted another traveler to the wonders of organ meats!
After a brief stop at the inquisition museum where there were numerous artifacts of torture, we walked over to the Lima Chinatown. Apparently there is a large Chinese population in Lima. Actually there are Chinese people everywhere that I went in South America. Very few places did not have one or two Chifas (Chinese restaurants) providing some variety to the local cuisine. Chifa is a play on the mandarin chi fan or eat rice / meal. The best way that I can describe them as fusion restaurants taking the Chinese style of cooking and incorporating local ingredients, but in reality they are about as close to authentic Chinese food as your local crappy take out place.
Although Lima had the largest Chinatown outside of possibly Sao Paulo, Brazil’s Japan / Korea / Chinatown, I didn’t really notice a lot of Chinese people there. There were blocks and blocks of restaurants and stores run by Chinese, but the customers were all Peruvians and no Chinese were in sight eating in the restaurants or shopping in the stores. Perhaps this is a Chinatown akin to the one in San Francisco where tourists and non Asians flock to while local Asians look for more authentic and non-touristic establishments.
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| Lima, Peru - Day 1 |
Monday, May 11, 2009
Cusco, Peru - Day 7
Today is our last day in Cusco and we would be sad to leave. We’ve spent over a week in Cusco, the sacred valley, and Machu Picchu and have enjoyed our time in this cultural utopia. We decided to embark on a trip to the weekly Sunday market in Pisaq, a city about an hour away from Cusco. I managed to persuade Matt to take the local bus which costs less than a dollar each way. Not so much to save money as a tax ride would be less than 15 dollars, but more so to get an authentic experience, to travel as locals travel, and to experience the trials and tribulations of a crowded bus with people standing and holding overloaded packages. Exposing oneself to local customs whether it be food, modes of transportation, or living accommodations builds a broader perspective and forces one outside their comfort zone; in my opinion, two of the main benefits of traveling.
I’m glad that Matt is game to try most new things, so he readily agreed to take on this mini challenge. We found the bus station, a empty parking lot in the middle of a rather nondescript block, with a line of people looping around the lot and out to the street. Vendors selling food and drinks, and locals toting screaming children and large packages all added to the atmosphere. After waiting for about half an hour we were the first couple to get on the next bus and we secured a seat for the ride to Pisaq. Others were not as lucky as they crowded the aisles and loading area in the front of the bus. I half expected the bus driver to pull a ladder out for people to climb up to the roof as they do in other third world countries.
The Pisaq Sunday market is a quite an assorted vivid overload of colors, smells, sounds and unique sights. Multi-colored corn ranging from the typical yellow to the exotic brown and purple flanked exotic fruits and rainbow-like color assortment of spices and dyes.
One of the more interesting items was little penthouses built into the building’s facade which housed multiple guinea pigs in a plethora of rooms. Next to the housing complex was an oven which resembled a brick oven pizza oven in the states. It was round with a small hole in the front and a long wooden pole with a broad flat end used to transport foods in and out of the oven. On top of a big metal pan that was just recently pulled out were a couple roasted guinea pigs hanging out.
I’m glad that Matt is game to try most new things, so he readily agreed to take on this mini challenge. We found the bus station, a empty parking lot in the middle of a rather nondescript block, with a line of people looping around the lot and out to the street. Vendors selling food and drinks, and locals toting screaming children and large packages all added to the atmosphere. After waiting for about half an hour we were the first couple to get on the next bus and we secured a seat for the ride to Pisaq. Others were not as lucky as they crowded the aisles and loading area in the front of the bus. I half expected the bus driver to pull a ladder out for people to climb up to the roof as they do in other third world countries.
The Pisaq Sunday market is a quite an assorted vivid overload of colors, smells, sounds and unique sights. Multi-colored corn ranging from the typical yellow to the exotic brown and purple flanked exotic fruits and rainbow-like color assortment of spices and dyes.
One of the more interesting items was little penthouses built into the building’s facade which housed multiple guinea pigs in a plethora of rooms. Next to the housing complex was an oven which resembled a brick oven pizza oven in the states. It was round with a small hole in the front and a long wooden pole with a broad flat end used to transport foods in and out of the oven. On top of a big metal pan that was just recently pulled out were a couple roasted guinea pigs hanging out.
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| Cusco, Peru - Day 7 |
Friday, May 1, 2009
Cusco, Peru - Day 6
So one thing you realize after traveling for an extended period of time is that there are quite a number of other travelers who travel on the same gringo route. The pooling of travelers seems to grow exponentially when you visit the unique monolithic tourist attractions. Since Cusco and Machu Picchu are some of the undoubted highlights of South America, over the week period, we ran into three sets of Brazilian and Argentinean friends that I had met previously in Argentina and Chile. I even ran into middle aged French couple that was on my Solar de Uyuni tour in Bolivia over a month prior.
But the group that we easily ran into the most is this mix group of Argentineans from Cordoba. I met them on a tour of Tiwanaka in Bolivia. After parting ways I didn’t expect to run into them again. But on a boat trip to Copacabana on Lake Titicaca about 4 hours from La Paz, Marcus tapped me on the shoulder. On a tour in Cusco of the outlining temples and structures, Matt and I ran into the two girls in the market place. Then in Machu Picchu, then on top of Waynu Picchu, then at a restaurant, and finally watching a 12 piece traveling band perform in the Cusco town square. It’s a small world after all.
But the group that we easily ran into the most is this mix group of Argentineans from Cordoba. I met them on a tour of Tiwanaka in Bolivia. After parting ways I didn’t expect to run into them again. But on a boat trip to Copacabana on Lake Titicaca about 4 hours from La Paz, Marcus tapped me on the shoulder. On a tour in Cusco of the outlining temples and structures, Matt and I ran into the two girls in the market place. Then in Machu Picchu, then on top of Waynu Picchu, then at a restaurant, and finally watching a 12 piece traveling band perform in the Cusco town square. It’s a small world after all.
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| Cusco, Peru - Day 6 |
Thursday, April 30, 2009
Cusco, Peru - Day 5
Today we walked around to a couple museums and had a tasting smorgasbord at a local restaurant somewhat off the beaten path. It was still in Cusco but there were a ton of locals there, no tourists, and the place was well priced. Here is a list of foods that we tried in the order of how they appear in the pictures. I borrowed the food descriptions from this website.
Papa Rellena: Basically a variation of your stuffed potato. It is mashed potato rolled into balls or ovals and then stuffed with ground meat and spices. They are then deep fried is the outside is a crispy brown.
Papa a la Huancaina: Sliced Boiled Potatoes covered in a cheesy, slightly spicy yellow sauce (which contains Turmeric) served on top of lettuce. This dish is usually garnished with a quarter of a hard-boiled egg and sometimes with olives too.
Lomo Saltado: If you are on diet, we don't recommend this dish. Peruvians take strips of steak and sauté it with soy sauce, vinegar, garlic, chilies, onions and tomatoes. It is then served over a bed of rice with a large helping of chips (french fries). It is often served with a small side of salad too. It is a hearty meal that is served in many of the cheaper restaurants.
Picarones: These look like thin donuts (with a biggish hole in the center) that are not perfectly round. They are a type of pumpkin fritters which are normally served with syrup on top. It is sweet, but not overly so, and it is a filling dessert or snack.
Lucuma (In the ice cream): This 'nutty' flavored, orange colored fruit can frequently be found in Peruvian desserts. Peru is the only place in the world that has a large production of the lucuma fruit, although you will also find smaller lucuma farms throughout South America. The most common way to find this unique flavor is in ice-cream.
During other meals while in Peru we also sampled:
Anticuchos: Skewered meat (brochettes) that are sold throughout the streets of Peru and of course in restaurants. We recommend that you ask what type of meat it is before ordering one, as the most general kind is called anticucho de corazón, which is marinated beef hearts grilled on a stick.
Ceviche: There are many different variations of the dish which can be found in almost every restaurant in Peru. It is generally made with bite size chunks of raw white fish, normally sea bass. The fish is marinated in lemon / lime juice, onions and chilies. Traditionally it is served with boiled sweet potatoes or corn.
Tiradito: is similar to Ceviche though the fish is cut into strips instead of the chunks and it is made without onions giving it a lighter flavor.
Rocoto Relleno: Stuffed Rocoto peppers with a kick (they're a little hot/spicy). They are usually filled with meat, onions, egg whites, olives and sometimes with nuts. This dish originally comes from Arequipa.
Cuy Chactado: Here is where Peruvian cuisine might get a little scary for you. Fried Guinea pig! It was once eaten by Incan royalty and today remains a special food in Peru. While some restaurants serve it cut into small pieces and marinated others prefer a more dramatic presentation. It isn't uncommon to see the entire animal, head, feet and all grilled and served on a platter. Beware of the word Cuy (Guinea Pig) on any menu you see.
Papa Rellena: Basically a variation of your stuffed potato. It is mashed potato rolled into balls or ovals and then stuffed with ground meat and spices. They are then deep fried is the outside is a crispy brown.
Papa a la Huancaina: Sliced Boiled Potatoes covered in a cheesy, slightly spicy yellow sauce (which contains Turmeric) served on top of lettuce. This dish is usually garnished with a quarter of a hard-boiled egg and sometimes with olives too.
Lomo Saltado: If you are on diet, we don't recommend this dish. Peruvians take strips of steak and sauté it with soy sauce, vinegar, garlic, chilies, onions and tomatoes. It is then served over a bed of rice with a large helping of chips (french fries). It is often served with a small side of salad too. It is a hearty meal that is served in many of the cheaper restaurants.
Picarones: These look like thin donuts (with a biggish hole in the center) that are not perfectly round. They are a type of pumpkin fritters which are normally served with syrup on top. It is sweet, but not overly so, and it is a filling dessert or snack.
Lucuma (In the ice cream): This 'nutty' flavored, orange colored fruit can frequently be found in Peruvian desserts. Peru is the only place in the world that has a large production of the lucuma fruit, although you will also find smaller lucuma farms throughout South America. The most common way to find this unique flavor is in ice-cream.
During other meals while in Peru we also sampled:
Anticuchos: Skewered meat (brochettes) that are sold throughout the streets of Peru and of course in restaurants. We recommend that you ask what type of meat it is before ordering one, as the most general kind is called anticucho de corazón, which is marinated beef hearts grilled on a stick.
Ceviche: There are many different variations of the dish which can be found in almost every restaurant in Peru. It is generally made with bite size chunks of raw white fish, normally sea bass. The fish is marinated in lemon / lime juice, onions and chilies. Traditionally it is served with boiled sweet potatoes or corn.
Tiradito: is similar to Ceviche though the fish is cut into strips instead of the chunks and it is made without onions giving it a lighter flavor.
Rocoto Relleno: Stuffed Rocoto peppers with a kick (they're a little hot/spicy). They are usually filled with meat, onions, egg whites, olives and sometimes with nuts. This dish originally comes from Arequipa.
Cuy Chactado: Here is where Peruvian cuisine might get a little scary for you. Fried Guinea pig! It was once eaten by Incan royalty and today remains a special food in Peru. While some restaurants serve it cut into small pieces and marinated others prefer a more dramatic presentation. It isn't uncommon to see the entire animal, head, feet and all grilled and served on a platter. Beware of the word Cuy (Guinea Pig) on any menu you see.
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| Cusco, Peru - Day 5 |
Wednesday, April 29, 2009
Machu Picchu Trek Fauna, Peru
So in the four days of hiking up to Machu Picchu we experienced quite a varietal of fauna and vegetation. Some huge aloe looking plants here. A vivid assortment of purple, blue, red, and yellow unique flowers which ran the gamut of the rainbow sprinkled the trail over there. A veritable rain forest greeted us on the third day of the hike. All flushed against the jaw dropping snow capped mountain back drop. In this photo album of about 140 pictures, all the pictures are of different plants with the exception of a couple favorites.
Yellow Lady Slipper Flowers
Yellow Lady Slipper Flowers
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| Machu Picchu Trek Fauna |
Tuesday, April 28, 2009
Machu Picchu Trek, Peru - Day 4
So today we woke up at 3:45 in the morning to be one of the first three groups at the gate which opens at 5:30 in the morning. While we grumbled a bit at the early morning rise in the pitch black, we were very grateful in hindsight. Matt and I ran the last part of the trek in 45 minutes which normally takes 1 – 1.5 hours to walk to get to the Sun Gate. From there we had to wait for the rest of the group to catch up so we could go to Wayna Picchu to get tickets. Only 400 people are allowed access per day to the soaring mountain which rises over Machu Picchu and gives stunning panoramic views of the ruins and valley below. This would be the one of the highlights of the trip!
We were racing against the masses of people who would be taking a slightly easier route and catching an early bus from Aquas Calientes, a neighboring town, up to Machu Picchu. They would be getting there around 7am so we were trying to get there in that timeframe so we could get one of those magical tickets. We must have looked like quite a circus show running into Machu Picchu; all harried, unshowered and unkempt with exhausted gaunt, sunken eyes bestowing the pain of waking up before the sun and carrying our bags for the last 4 days. Some of the other tourists who took the bus appeared rather refreshed and springy in their dapper sweaters resting over their shoulders and crossed in front, and glanced at us with a mixture of awe and interest. Perhaps it was more shock and disbelief. I prefer to believe that they were inspired.
So after all that running we got to the WP ticket counter and got the 392 to 400th ticket. I got the LAST ONE! It was crazy, I actually felt bad because a couple of the guys had walked through Machu Picchu and they missed out on tickets to Waynu Picchu. Wow the euphoria of getting the last ticket was like winning the lottery. Despite my calm demeanor and even keeled personality, I don’t think I would have stood up well to being number 401 in line.
Half way up Waynu Picchu, I was starting to wonder if it would have been better to be number 401. My legs were burning like I had just run a marathon with a 50lb bag on. The effects of the three day trek and waking up early were getting the best of me. I was getting light headed and had to lean heavily on the steel cables that lined the steep mountain walls. This mountain was steep, at some points only had space for one person to cross, and did not have cables in some sections. At the top, we had to crawl under a huge rock for about 20 feet on our hands and knees through some water which was only big enough for barely me to fit. I have no idea how a large unathletic person managed this natural obstacle course. We emerged on the other side of the fallen rock where after climbing up another flight of steps we arrived at the top of the mountain, which was a huge pile of enormous boulders. It was really cool to run around on top of huge rocks overlooking the valley and Machu Picchu, until you realize that there are no cables up here. That it’s raining and the rocks are slippery. And that this is probably where that tourist fell of the mountain about 9 months ago. Then it gets realistically scary rather quickly. After slowing edging our way around the precipitous boulders, we edged our way down and properly explored Machu Picchu.
Machu Picchu is as amazing as everybody says it is. I’m not going to bore you with superlatives which you can read by googling Machu Picchu. Just know that if you haven’t been already you should go. I would rank it on par with the Great Wall, Ankor Wat and the Forbidden City in terms of awesome man-made beauty and engineering. It should be on everybody’s bucket list.
We were racing against the masses of people who would be taking a slightly easier route and catching an early bus from Aquas Calientes, a neighboring town, up to Machu Picchu. They would be getting there around 7am so we were trying to get there in that timeframe so we could get one of those magical tickets. We must have looked like quite a circus show running into Machu Picchu; all harried, unshowered and unkempt with exhausted gaunt, sunken eyes bestowing the pain of waking up before the sun and carrying our bags for the last 4 days. Some of the other tourists who took the bus appeared rather refreshed and springy in their dapper sweaters resting over their shoulders and crossed in front, and glanced at us with a mixture of awe and interest. Perhaps it was more shock and disbelief. I prefer to believe that they were inspired.
So after all that running we got to the WP ticket counter and got the 392 to 400th ticket. I got the LAST ONE! It was crazy, I actually felt bad because a couple of the guys had walked through Machu Picchu and they missed out on tickets to Waynu Picchu. Wow the euphoria of getting the last ticket was like winning the lottery. Despite my calm demeanor and even keeled personality, I don’t think I would have stood up well to being number 401 in line.
Half way up Waynu Picchu, I was starting to wonder if it would have been better to be number 401. My legs were burning like I had just run a marathon with a 50lb bag on. The effects of the three day trek and waking up early were getting the best of me. I was getting light headed and had to lean heavily on the steel cables that lined the steep mountain walls. This mountain was steep, at some points only had space for one person to cross, and did not have cables in some sections. At the top, we had to crawl under a huge rock for about 20 feet on our hands and knees through some water which was only big enough for barely me to fit. I have no idea how a large unathletic person managed this natural obstacle course. We emerged on the other side of the fallen rock where after climbing up another flight of steps we arrived at the top of the mountain, which was a huge pile of enormous boulders. It was really cool to run around on top of huge rocks overlooking the valley and Machu Picchu, until you realize that there are no cables up here. That it’s raining and the rocks are slippery. And that this is probably where that tourist fell of the mountain about 9 months ago. Then it gets realistically scary rather quickly. After slowing edging our way around the precipitous boulders, we edged our way down and properly explored Machu Picchu.
Machu Picchu is as amazing as everybody says it is. I’m not going to bore you with superlatives which you can read by googling Machu Picchu. Just know that if you haven’t been already you should go. I would rank it on par with the Great Wall, Ankor Wat and the Forbidden City in terms of awesome man-made beauty and engineering. It should be on everybody’s bucket list.
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| Machu Picchu Trek, Peru - Day 4 |
Friday, March 27, 2009
Machu Picchu Trek, Peru - Day 3
Along the trail today we got to visit a couple Inca ruins as well as see some hummingbirds. The weather wasn’t spectacular as it rained extremely hard for parts of the trek resulting is some heads down concentration on the rocky steps. A highlight of the day was looking forward to our last campsite where we would be able to take a hot shower for 10 soles or 3 dollars. When we arrived late at night, we discovered that there was only one shower for men and one for women for over 300 people on the trail. At that point we were so tired and we would have to be up at 3:45 the following morning in order to be at the gate at 5:30, that we decided to just go to bed after dinner. Interestingly enough, for a large group of people who haven’t showered in 3 days, nobody had any offensive odors. Perhaps it was the rain, cool weather, or just a lot of deodorant. Or perhaps we just got use to the scent.
We had to be up uber early on the fourth day of the trek because you want to be one of the first three groups in line when the gate opens so that you can run down the trail for about an hour and get access to Wayna Picchu. Wayna Picchu is a mountain which nestles up against Machu Picchu and has amazing soaring views of the lost city. Only 400 people a day are allowed access to the mountain for the privilege to tackle the steep and precipitous climb in order to get the coveted panoramic view of Machu Picchu. At times the steep trails are exposed with little protection other than a steel rope embedded in the side of the mountain. While Wayna Picchu is normally a difficult and precarious climb, when raining the trail can be extremely slick and treacherous. In the past 9 months, a tourist fell off the mountain and passed away. So while we were well aware of the genuine risks, we were excited to climb the mountain and gaze down upon Machu Picchu. This is why one wakes up at 3:45 in the morning.
We had to be up uber early on the fourth day of the trek because you want to be one of the first three groups in line when the gate opens so that you can run down the trail for about an hour and get access to Wayna Picchu. Wayna Picchu is a mountain which nestles up against Machu Picchu and has amazing soaring views of the lost city. Only 400 people a day are allowed access to the mountain for the privilege to tackle the steep and precipitous climb in order to get the coveted panoramic view of Machu Picchu. At times the steep trails are exposed with little protection other than a steel rope embedded in the side of the mountain. While Wayna Picchu is normally a difficult and precarious climb, when raining the trail can be extremely slick and treacherous. In the past 9 months, a tourist fell off the mountain and passed away. So while we were well aware of the genuine risks, we were excited to climb the mountain and gaze down upon Machu Picchu. This is why one wakes up at 3:45 in the morning.
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| Machu Picchu Trek, Peru - Day 3 |
Thursday, March 26, 2009
Machu Picchu Trek, Peru - Day 2
The first day of trekking was rather easy with a 12km trek on a rather flat surface without any rain. On day two after waking up at around 5:30am, Matt and I found the side of our tent thoroughly soaked through. Apparently it had rained hard during the night as we slept.
As we were packing up our damp gear that was along the side of the tent in preparation for breakfast, I looked over the campsite and soaked in the marvelous scenery. Snow capped mountain peaks in the distance; a meandering river flowing into a small waterfall provided a tranquil backdrop to the ambient noises of the forest and fellow trekkers; and wild horses earnestly grazing not more than 10 ft away. Our group consisted of a fun mix of tourists from around the world and included a group of six 20 year old students from England, a couple from Toronto on part of their honeymoon, and a 60 year old mother from North Carolina among others.
The food was extremely plentiful and quite good considering the cooking circumstances. The chef even made a cake for the last meal. We had an extensive array of food options from pancakes to fruit to oatmeal. We usually have two to three meat / vegetable dishes and a starch or two to go along with a soup or appetizer. After breakfast, we prepared for the hardest day of the trek. A 16km stretch with an ascension of over 800km up to Dead Woman’s Pass and then back down another 500km to our camp site.
The hike up to Dead Woman’s Pass was tough and exhausting, but I had a couple advantages versus some other trekkers such as Matt. Most people drop into Lima and then fly over to Cusco for their trek, spending 2 days in Cusco to get acclimatized to the altitude which can render walking up a flight of stairs a monumental task. While two days helps a lot, Matt and others were obviously facing the battle versus the altitude and often losing. Having been in Bolivia for the last couple weeks or so at high elevations, allowed me to handle the altitude with ease. A girl on our trek marveled that I was able to walk and not have to hunch over to catch my breath every 5 minutes and that my breathing was not labored.
The second advantage that I had was that I packed light. A change of shirts and socks with the minimal toiletries, sleeping bag, and foam mattress were given to a porter to carry. In my small bag, I carried my jacket when I wasn’t using it, bug spray, and water. Others, I have no idea how they managed, carried all their stuff with them on their backs in large backpacks. They were able to keep up, and I applaud them. While I considered carrying my stuff myself, I knew that I wanted to enjoy the scenery and trek; and while I definitely could have done the trek with my big bag, I know that it would have impaired my ability to enjoy nature. Without the additional bulk and weight, I was able to easily handle the tough rocky spots of the trail which were sometimes slick with rain, climb up the side of the mountain to look at an interesting flower, and run up the last 100meters of Dead Woman’s Pass. Yes I sprinted up the hill on a bet. I wanted to see if I could run at this altitude up a steep incline. The porters have a yearly marathon over the entire trail which is the same distances as the NYC one just with altitude and extremely difficult terrain. The fastest guy completed the 25 mile course in a little more than three hours. I found that the main issue was lung capacity at that altitude as I had to stop half way up to catch my breath. When I got to the top, I thought my head and lungs would explode but my legs did not really hurt at all.
The third advantage is that I’ve been doing a lot of trekking through Argentina and Chile and walking around exploring new cities over the last couple months so that extra exercise probably prepared me for the trek a bit more than a person who is normally sitting at a desk for most of the day.
But one can do the trek and survive without any of these “so called” advantages. The 60 year old mother carried her huge bag by herself.
As we were packing up our damp gear that was along the side of the tent in preparation for breakfast, I looked over the campsite and soaked in the marvelous scenery. Snow capped mountain peaks in the distance; a meandering river flowing into a small waterfall provided a tranquil backdrop to the ambient noises of the forest and fellow trekkers; and wild horses earnestly grazing not more than 10 ft away. Our group consisted of a fun mix of tourists from around the world and included a group of six 20 year old students from England, a couple from Toronto on part of their honeymoon, and a 60 year old mother from North Carolina among others.
The food was extremely plentiful and quite good considering the cooking circumstances. The chef even made a cake for the last meal. We had an extensive array of food options from pancakes to fruit to oatmeal. We usually have two to three meat / vegetable dishes and a starch or two to go along with a soup or appetizer. After breakfast, we prepared for the hardest day of the trek. A 16km stretch with an ascension of over 800km up to Dead Woman’s Pass and then back down another 500km to our camp site.
The hike up to Dead Woman’s Pass was tough and exhausting, but I had a couple advantages versus some other trekkers such as Matt. Most people drop into Lima and then fly over to Cusco for their trek, spending 2 days in Cusco to get acclimatized to the altitude which can render walking up a flight of stairs a monumental task. While two days helps a lot, Matt and others were obviously facing the battle versus the altitude and often losing. Having been in Bolivia for the last couple weeks or so at high elevations, allowed me to handle the altitude with ease. A girl on our trek marveled that I was able to walk and not have to hunch over to catch my breath every 5 minutes and that my breathing was not labored.
The second advantage that I had was that I packed light. A change of shirts and socks with the minimal toiletries, sleeping bag, and foam mattress were given to a porter to carry. In my small bag, I carried my jacket when I wasn’t using it, bug spray, and water. Others, I have no idea how they managed, carried all their stuff with them on their backs in large backpacks. They were able to keep up, and I applaud them. While I considered carrying my stuff myself, I knew that I wanted to enjoy the scenery and trek; and while I definitely could have done the trek with my big bag, I know that it would have impaired my ability to enjoy nature. Without the additional bulk and weight, I was able to easily handle the tough rocky spots of the trail which were sometimes slick with rain, climb up the side of the mountain to look at an interesting flower, and run up the last 100meters of Dead Woman’s Pass. Yes I sprinted up the hill on a bet. I wanted to see if I could run at this altitude up a steep incline. The porters have a yearly marathon over the entire trail which is the same distances as the NYC one just with altitude and extremely difficult terrain. The fastest guy completed the 25 mile course in a little more than three hours. I found that the main issue was lung capacity at that altitude as I had to stop half way up to catch my breath. When I got to the top, I thought my head and lungs would explode but my legs did not really hurt at all.
The third advantage is that I’ve been doing a lot of trekking through Argentina and Chile and walking around exploring new cities over the last couple months so that extra exercise probably prepared me for the trek a bit more than a person who is normally sitting at a desk for most of the day.
But one can do the trek and survive without any of these “so called” advantages. The 60 year old mother carried her huge bag by herself.
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| Machu Picchu Trek, Peru - Day 2 |
Wednesday, March 25, 2009
Machu Picchu Trek, Peru - Day 1
And so the journey begins. 4 days, 3 nights, no showers. 45 kilometers or about 28 miles spread out over the majority of 3 days and ascending to an altitude of 4200 kilometers. If the altitude doesn’t get you, the rain will. It’s the rainy season and it’s guaranteed to rain hard at some point during our trek. In fact in a couple of days after our trek, the trail closes down for a month in part due to the rain and to restore the trail. And the altitude usually gets you. Gasping and wheezing, while you struggle to catch your breath on a trek that would be strenuous at sea level. Why would anyone subject themselves to this?
There are easier ways to get to the Lost Incan city. From Cusco, you can take a 3 hour train to Aguas Calientes and then a 30 min bus. Or you can take a helicopter and be there in 30 minutes.
Most seasoned travelers agree that Machu Picchu in Peru is the world's most dramatic ruins. If it’s not the first, then it’s definitely in the top three. Machu Picchu sits boldly perched on a steep sided mountain saddle far above the partially encircling Urubamba River. What remains of the precision stonework of the pre-Colombian Inca temples and palaces clearly reveals how exalted Machu Picchu was in its glory days.
Yet despite all these accolades, the arduous journey to the ruins is just as much a part of the enchanting magical experience as the ruins themselves. To tread in the previous footsteps of thousands of Incas as they conducted their daily commute to surrounding villages for trade or labor. To see the majestic mountains and landscape unfold as you round a corner of the path and happen upon a quaint Inca ruin. To marvel in amazement at the uniquely delicate and intricate fauna that populates the trails. To speculate what the next turn or twist in the trail may bestow upon you. Or to merely contemplate when you can put your bag down and rest your weary feet.
For me, some of the magic of Machu Picchu is lost if you descend upon it in a helicopter. The journey augments the aura and intensifies the anticipation. And so the journey begins.
There are easier ways to get to the Lost Incan city. From Cusco, you can take a 3 hour train to Aguas Calientes and then a 30 min bus. Or you can take a helicopter and be there in 30 minutes.
Most seasoned travelers agree that Machu Picchu in Peru is the world's most dramatic ruins. If it’s not the first, then it’s definitely in the top three. Machu Picchu sits boldly perched on a steep sided mountain saddle far above the partially encircling Urubamba River. What remains of the precision stonework of the pre-Colombian Inca temples and palaces clearly reveals how exalted Machu Picchu was in its glory days.
Yet despite all these accolades, the arduous journey to the ruins is just as much a part of the enchanting magical experience as the ruins themselves. To tread in the previous footsteps of thousands of Incas as they conducted their daily commute to surrounding villages for trade or labor. To see the majestic mountains and landscape unfold as you round a corner of the path and happen upon a quaint Inca ruin. To marvel in amazement at the uniquely delicate and intricate fauna that populates the trails. To speculate what the next turn or twist in the trail may bestow upon you. Or to merely contemplate when you can put your bag down and rest your weary feet.
For me, some of the magic of Machu Picchu is lost if you descend upon it in a helicopter. The journey augments the aura and intensifies the anticipation. And so the journey begins.
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| Machu Picchu Trek, Peru - Day 1 |
Monday, March 23, 2009
Cusco, Peru - Day 4
Today we took a tour of the Sacred Valley visiting Pisaq and Ollantaytambo. The archeological ruins of Pisaq are in the Sacred Valley about a 25 minute hike up rich green terraced mountains along the Urubamba River. The modern town of Pisaq has a extensive Sunday open air market and the only church in the world to hold mass in Quechua, the native Incan language.
Ollantaytambo was a complex, extensive archeological site which was rather well maintained. It was an important place for the Incas and served as the Incan capital for a short period of time. Ollantaytambo was also the starting point of our Machu Picchu trek the following day.
Ollantaytambo was a complex, extensive archeological site which was rather well maintained. It was an important place for the Incas and served as the Incan capital for a short period of time. Ollantaytambo was also the starting point of our Machu Picchu trek the following day.
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| Cusco, Peru - Day 4 |
Saturday, March 21, 2009
Cusco, Peru - Day 3
So my high school friend Matt arrived early in the morning and we kicked off the adventurous part of our next two weeks together with a tour of 4 archeological sites of Inca importance.
The first was Qorikancha (from the Quechua words Quri Kancha meaning 'Golden Courtyard'). It was the most important temple in the Inca Empire, dedicated primarily to Inti, the Sun God. It was one of the most revered and respected temples of the city of Cusco, Peru. The walls and floors were once covered in sheets of solid gold, and the courtyard was filled with golden statues. Spanish reports tell of its opulence that was 'fabulous beyond belief'.
The Church of Santo Domingo was built on the site, using the ruined foundations of the temple that was flattened by the Spanish in the 17th century, and is a fine example of where Inca stonework has been incorporated into the structure of a colonial building. Major earthquakes have severely damaged the church, but the Inca stone walls, built out of huge, tightly-interlocking blocks of stone, still stand thanks to the sophisticated stone masonry.
The next stop was Saqsaywaman located 2km from the Cusco. The Incas called it the House of the Sun and the Spaniards called it a fortress because of its zig-zag shape and the 1536 revolution. The construction, which is made up of three platforms one on top of the other, was one of the most important religious complexes of its time. The enormous boulders that form part of the construction were put together perfectly without using mortar. The heaviest weighs up to 125 tons. Archaeologists are currently excavating and have discovered water fountains, canals and rooms. In a nearby flat area, every June 24 local inhabitants hold the Festival of the Sun, or Ind Raymi.
Despite all of these fascinating archeological sites, the highlight of our day was trying the local delicacy of Cuy, otherwise known as a guinea pig. Most of the locals that I spoke with raved about this dish, and I was eager to give it a try. Admittedly, a guinea pig, what some people refer to as a pet, is a bit unconventional as a food item but some people have pot belly pigs as pets and I’m not going to give up pork. I have eaten some weird things before in my travels including insects, baby chickens inside an egg, and spoiled soy beans so I figured this couldn’t be much worse. We got it in a fancy restaurant with mostly refined middle aged patrons who shrieked in joy and amazement when the roasted tailless rat was brought to our table. Or perhaps it was horror. We got the baked version instead of the fried one and the skin was rather chewy. There wasn’t much meat on the Cuy and the meat that was there wasn’t really that flavorful. Perhaps they toned the spices down to account for a tourist palate but I didn’t see what there was to rave about. The 20 minutes of pictures and posing was better than the food.
The first was Qorikancha (from the Quechua words Quri Kancha meaning 'Golden Courtyard'). It was the most important temple in the Inca Empire, dedicated primarily to Inti, the Sun God. It was one of the most revered and respected temples of the city of Cusco, Peru. The walls and floors were once covered in sheets of solid gold, and the courtyard was filled with golden statues. Spanish reports tell of its opulence that was 'fabulous beyond belief'.
The Church of Santo Domingo was built on the site, using the ruined foundations of the temple that was flattened by the Spanish in the 17th century, and is a fine example of where Inca stonework has been incorporated into the structure of a colonial building. Major earthquakes have severely damaged the church, but the Inca stone walls, built out of huge, tightly-interlocking blocks of stone, still stand thanks to the sophisticated stone masonry.
The next stop was Saqsaywaman located 2km from the Cusco. The Incas called it the House of the Sun and the Spaniards called it a fortress because of its zig-zag shape and the 1536 revolution. The construction, which is made up of three platforms one on top of the other, was one of the most important religious complexes of its time. The enormous boulders that form part of the construction were put together perfectly without using mortar. The heaviest weighs up to 125 tons. Archaeologists are currently excavating and have discovered water fountains, canals and rooms. In a nearby flat area, every June 24 local inhabitants hold the Festival of the Sun, or Ind Raymi.
Despite all of these fascinating archeological sites, the highlight of our day was trying the local delicacy of Cuy, otherwise known as a guinea pig. Most of the locals that I spoke with raved about this dish, and I was eager to give it a try. Admittedly, a guinea pig, what some people refer to as a pet, is a bit unconventional as a food item but some people have pot belly pigs as pets and I’m not going to give up pork. I have eaten some weird things before in my travels including insects, baby chickens inside an egg, and spoiled soy beans so I figured this couldn’t be much worse. We got it in a fancy restaurant with mostly refined middle aged patrons who shrieked in joy and amazement when the roasted tailless rat was brought to our table. Or perhaps it was horror. We got the baked version instead of the fried one and the skin was rather chewy. There wasn’t much meat on the Cuy and the meat that was there wasn’t really that flavorful. Perhaps they toned the spices down to account for a tourist palate but I didn’t see what there was to rave about. The 20 minutes of pictures and posing was better than the food.
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| Cusco, Peru - Day 3 |
Tuesday, March 17, 2009
Cusco, Peru - Day 1
After spinning through South America like a tightly wound out of control top, I need a chance to regroup and recharge. I had heard amazing stories from other tourists about Cusco, oozing in history and fun. In this book that I’m reading, the author talks about the city that she is in and how the essence of a city could be boiled down to a specific word. New York is Aspire. Stockholm is Conform. Los Angeles is Succeed. One could say that Cusco is Culture. Amazing churches and architecture, narrow cobbles stone streets which would give three fat people walking side by side some issues, ladies in traditional clothing and bowler hats, and the gateway to Machu Picchu all give Cusco an aura seeped in culture. There is also a prevalent feeling of tourism and capitalism which while paradoxically contradictory to the concept of culture is also ironically exponentially intertwined.
I was eagerly awaiting the arrival of a good buddy from high school who was flying down to Peru for a brief vacation. Growing up collect stamps, playing swords, or building forts in the back yard were all part of the fun memories that we had growing up. Peru was just another adventure that waited to unfold.
So for the next two days while I waited for Matt, I relaxed, reflected and explored the gateway to the lost Incan City.
I was eagerly awaiting the arrival of a good buddy from high school who was flying down to Peru for a brief vacation. Growing up collect stamps, playing swords, or building forts in the back yard were all part of the fun memories that we had growing up. Peru was just another adventure that waited to unfold.
So for the next two days while I waited for Matt, I relaxed, reflected and explored the gateway to the lost Incan City.
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| Cusco, Peru - Day 1 |
Puno, Peru - Day 1
The floating villages on the Peruvian side of Lake Titicaca are a very staged tourist attraction. The Peruvians should just call it Disney World on reeds. Locals dressed in their native outfits, pose, smile and wave just like the “It’s a small world after all” ride. But like Disney World, the floating village has an innate ability to entertain and amaze anybody between the age of 5 and 80. The floating islands are like a 17th century science fair project. How many people can we fit onto a pile of floating plants? Can we build a house on it? How about a town? Oh let’s just see if we can LIVE on floating plants. Somewhere along this science fair project, the teacher forgot to tell the students that the science fair was over and that they can return to their land which is a 20 minute boat ride away.
Jumping up and down on the floating blocks of soil, climbing up lookout towers, and taking boat rides on straw bound together with string, is a fun learning experience. The locals string together blocks of floating soil (don’t ask me how it floats but I tried to push a block down in the water and it promptly popped back up like a cork) and then place piles and piles of reeds on them. When the reeds become waterlogged every two weeks or so, they are replaced with new ones. As such, a large part of the local’s activities not only include fishing and hunting birds but also prepare the future reeds for use. Although who knows, perhaps they live in mini mansions on the main land and just come to the floating islands that their ancestors previously inhabited from 9-5.
I got to my place around 8 pm and set about exploring Puno for a dinner spot. Following the suggestion of a local, I ended up finding a remarkably touristy, delectable delicious, and entertaining restaurant. They had folk dancing there and I got to try alpaca. The meat arrived perfectly cooked, medium rare, slightly charred and quivering atop a bed of cheesy grain which I can only equate to grits. The mass was more cheesy and stringy than grainy with a one needing to cut the starch that the meat rested on. Local organic vegetables accompanied the dish. Along with a local Andean soup and a delicious kingfish ceviche, the whole meal and dining experience set me back only $15 dollars. Gotta love Peru.
Jumping up and down on the floating blocks of soil, climbing up lookout towers, and taking boat rides on straw bound together with string, is a fun learning experience. The locals string together blocks of floating soil (don’t ask me how it floats but I tried to push a block down in the water and it promptly popped back up like a cork) and then place piles and piles of reeds on them. When the reeds become waterlogged every two weeks or so, they are replaced with new ones. As such, a large part of the local’s activities not only include fishing and hunting birds but also prepare the future reeds for use. Although who knows, perhaps they live in mini mansions on the main land and just come to the floating islands that their ancestors previously inhabited from 9-5.
I got to my place around 8 pm and set about exploring Puno for a dinner spot. Following the suggestion of a local, I ended up finding a remarkably touristy, delectable delicious, and entertaining restaurant. They had folk dancing there and I got to try alpaca. The meat arrived perfectly cooked, medium rare, slightly charred and quivering atop a bed of cheesy grain which I can only equate to grits. The mass was more cheesy and stringy than grainy with a one needing to cut the starch that the meat rested on. Local organic vegetables accompanied the dish. Along with a local Andean soup and a delicious kingfish ceviche, the whole meal and dining experience set me back only $15 dollars. Gotta love Peru.
 |
| Puno, Peru - Day 1 |
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